The Bias Shift Top is designed to be an easy-wearing, everyday top. It is a uniquely constructed, minimal-waste design that transforms a single square of fabric into a beautifully draping bias-cut top. The pattern offers two distinct views for effortless everyday wear: View 1 features a cinched front waist for a defined silhouette, while View 2 provides a classic, simple style.
This pattern has been in the making for a long time. I’ve always been fascinated by bias-cut garments, especially skirts. Still, I often avoided making them because they typically require a large amount of fabric and generate a surprising amount of waste.
A couple of years ago, after seeing Liz Haywood create a bias tube, I began experimenting with a similar concept. I took some linen from my stash to make my own version. I can’t remember the exact dimensions of the fabric, but it was probably around 1.5 yards of 57″ wide fabric. At the time, I didn’t have a full grasp of the math required to determine the size of the bias tube that would result from my piece of fabric – I was winging it. However, I was able to cut a sleeveless dress out of the resulting bias tube.
Playing with this concept got me very excited about the possibilities of bias-cut garments made from a bias tube. This led me to try and figure out how to mathematically determine the length and width of the bias tube, based on various starting fabric measurements. Lots of mini-paper models and spreadsheets later, I was able to determine the fabric dimensions needed to create bias tubes suitable for multiple garment sizes.
The Bias Shift Top is the result of this exploration. I’ve been craving simple, foundational pieces that are still interesting to create. This pattern is straightforward and complex at the same time, resulting in a beautiful, easy-wear garment. It’s also a relatively quick make that features clean finished seams throughout, but if you prefer to use different finishing methods than those instructed, you are welcome to do so.
The construction process is divided into three phases: Constructing the bias tube, cutting out the pattern pieces from the bias tube, and garment construction. There are three options for cutting out the pattern pieces: drafting directly to the fabric, using full-scale printable pattern pieces (available for print-at-home and A0/Copyshop), and using projector files. If you are finding it difficult to wrap your head around the construction process of the bias tube, creating a mini-paper model can be helpful (you can find directions for making one in the Instruction Booklet).
Once you understand how the bias tube comes together, you can start experimenting with the concept. Piecing different fabrics together to make your Base Square, modifying the side seams to create an A-line version, and experimenting with various fabric types – there are many ways to explore the Bias Shift Top.
I look forward to showcasing the amazing version that my testers created. I had a fantastic group of testers who helped bring this pattern to the finish line – thank you!! I will be highlighting their makes in a blog post soon. And I’m excited to see more Bias Shift Tops out in the world. Use the hashtags #BiasShiftTop and #GoldfinchBiasShiftTop and tag me @goldfinchtextilestudio if you post to social media. If you have any questions about the Bias Shift Top, please don’t hesitate to reach out to me – emily@goldfinch.design.
Happy Making!
