Category: Slow Fashion

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Bias Shift Top Tester Showcase

I’m grateful for the warm welcome the Bias Shift Top has received. It’s been fantastic to see versions already made by sewists, and I particularly enjoy seeing everyone’s unique interpretations of the pattern.

While Instagram is a great place to share your projects, posts can sometimes get lost, and the hashtag feature doesn’t work as it used to for someone trying to research a pattern. Because of this, I like to gather all my testers’ makes into one dedicated blog post. My aim here is to highlight and showcase the amazing versions our pattern testers created, offering a helpful resource when you’re selecting a size or considering fabric choices for your own Bias Shift Top.

Without further ado and in no particular order, here are the tester versions of the Bias Shift Top:

Bean | Bust: 36″, Waist: 31″, Hips: 37″ | Size D

Bean made 3! versions of the Bias Shift Top during the testing period. Version 1 is made from a light-weight cotton stripe; Version 2: lightweight cotton seersuck stripe; Version 3: mid-weight 9 oz. cotton slub knit. Bean selected her size based on her bust measurement.

Katrina | Bust: 53″, Waist: 48″, Hips: 59″ | Size N

When selecting which size to make, Katrina split the difference between her bust (size M) and hips (size O). She used lighter mid-weight cotton fabric to make her version.

Angela | Bust: 44.75″, Waist: 42″, Hips: 50″ | Size I & J

Angela made two versions of the top during the testing period: Size I & J. She used handkerchief cotton shirting and quilting cotton.

Lora | Bust: 42″, Waist: 39″, Hips: 50″ | Size G

Lora made her Bias Shift Top out of a beautiful soft floral cotton. Her size selection correlated with her bust measurement.

Rebecca | Bust: 34.5″, Waist: 29″, Hips: 37.5″ | Size C

Rebecca made View 1 of the Bias Shift Top in embroidered cotton. Rebecca selected her size based on her bust measurement.

Stephanie | Bust: 40″, Waist: 35″, Hips: 39″ | Size F

Stephanie made two versions during the testing phase, using a blue linen blend (midweight) and a floral polyester charmeuse. Stephanie selected her size based on her bust measurement.

Rhythm | Bust: 34.5″, Waist: 27″, Hips: 35″ | Size C

Rhythm made the final version of her Bias Shift Top out of a hand-tied and dyed rayon fabric. Her size selection correlated with her bust measurement.

Elizabeth | Bust: 43″, Waist: 38″, Hips: 45″ | Size H

Elizabeth made two versions of the top during the testing phase. For the first one, Elizabeth used lace inserts (that highlight the faux raglan seams) to extend the width of her fabric. The second was made from cotton in a fun print. Elizabeth selected her size based on her bust measurement.

Christina | Bust: 44″, Waist: 39″, Hips: 49″ | Size H

Christina used a lightweight cotton lawn to make her Bias Shift Top. Christina used her bust measurement to select her size.

Jamie | Bust: 35.5″, Waist: 29.5″, Hips: 38.5″ | Size D

Jaime made her final test version out of black 100% cotton crinkle crepe. All of the top stitching was done by hand with heavier-weight thread, which really highlights the faux raglan seams. Jamie’s bust measurement is between sizes, so she sized up.

Ella | Bust: 38″, Waist: 32″, Hips: 40.5″ | Size E

Ella used a plain weave linen to make her Bias Shift Top and based her size selection on her bust measurement.

Erica | Bust: 32″, Waist: 25″, Hips: 35″ | Size B

Erica made her top out of a linen, ramie, cotton blend. Erica selected her size based on her bust measurement.

Joana | Bust: 87 cm, Waist: 72 cm, Hips: 93 cm | Size C

Joana’s Bias Shift Top is made from a light cotton-poly blend. Joana’s size correlates with her bust measurement.

Lorraine | Bust: 38″, Waist: 33″, Hips: 44″ | Size E

Lorriane made a couple of versions during the testing period. She used a drapey, thin, synthetic, and stiff quilting cotton. Lorriane’s bust measurement was between sizes so she sized up when selecting which size to make.

Catherine | Bust: 40″, Waist: 36″, Hips: 47″ | Size G

Catherine used a washed rayon for her Bias Shift Top. The fabric is very soft and drapey.

Pippa | Bust: 99 cm, Waist: 87 cm, Hips: 107 cm | Size F

Pippa made her version out of a viscose twill fabric. Pippa’s bust measurement put her between sizes, so she sized up.

Grace | Bust: 48″, Waist: 44″, Hips: 50″ | Size J

Grace used a lightweight linen to make her Bias Shift Top. Grace selected her size based on her bust measurement.

Kelly | Bust: 46″, Waist: 37″, Hips: 44″ | Size I

Kelly used a woven Lyocell fabric to make her test version. Kelly selected her size based on her bust measurement.

Christina | Bust: 39″, Waist: 44″, Hips: 49″ | Size I

Christina sized up based on her waist and hip measurements. She made two versions during the testing period. The one shown below was made from a stretch chiffon.

Evonne | Bust: 34.5″, Waist: 31″, Hips: 38″ | Size C

Evonne selected her size based on her bust measurement. She used a cotton sateen fabric for her test version. Evonne added a pleat detail at the sleeve openings to reduce the sleeve width (this issue has since been addressed).

Amanda | Bust: 118 cm, Waist: 103 cm, Hips: 128 cm | Size I

Amanda made her Bias Shift Top out of a viscose linen blend. Amanda selected her size based on her bust measurement.

Jude | Bust: 100 cm, Waist: 95 cm, Hips: 110 cm | Size blended H & I

Jude selected her size based on her shoulder measurements. Jude graded between a Size H and I (directions to do this are included in the instructions). She used 100% cotton fabric to make her top.

Hayley | Bust: 38″, Waist: 32″, Hips: 44″ | Size E

Hayley used a cotton lawn to make her Bias Shift Top. Hayley selected her size based on her bust measurement.

Libby | Bust: 33″, Waist: 31″, Hips: 40″ | Size D

Libby was between sizes and chose to size down. She made her top from lightweight linen.

Grace | Bust: 46″, Waist: 40″, Hips: 47″ | Size G

Grace sized down when making her Bias Shift Top. She used an 85% viscose, 15% linen woven fabric.

Stephanie | Bust: 99 cm, Waist: 85 cm, Hips: 113 cm | Size blended F & G

Stephanie graded from Size F to a Size G Hip according to the instructions given. She used a Nani Iro double cotton gauze fabric for her version.

Kerry | Bust: 38″, Waist: 29″, Hips: 40″ | Size E

Kerry used a medium-weight linen to make her Bias Shift Top. Kerry based her size selection on her bust measurement.

Rosa | Bust: 39″, Waist: 44″, Hips: 54″ | Size K

Rosa made View 1 out of cotton fabric. Rosa’s bust measurement put her between sizes, so she sized up.

Shirley | Bust: 32.5″, Waist: 26″, Hips: 36.5″ | Size B

Shirley selected her size based on her bust measurement and made her version out of cotton.

Thank you again to my amazing group of testers! The pattern-making process would not be complete without them, and I’m so appreciative of everyone’s willingness to share their time and creativity with me.

If you have any questions about size selection or fabric when making your Bias Shift Top, don’t hesitate to reach out to me – emily@goldfinch.design.

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Introducing the Bias Shift Top


The Bias Shift Top is designed to be an easy-wearing, everyday top. It is a uniquely constructed, minimal-waste design that transforms a single square of fabric into a beautifully draping bias-cut top. The pattern offers two distinct views for effortless everyday wear: View 1 features a cinched front waist for a defined silhouette, while View 2 provides a classic, simple style. 

Bias Shift Top PDF Pattern

This pattern has been in the making for a long time. I’ve always been fascinated by bias-cut garments, especially skirts. Still, I often avoided making them because they typically require a large amount of fabric and generate a surprising amount of waste.

A couple of years ago, after seeing Liz Haywood create a bias tube, I began experimenting with a similar concept. I took some linen from my stash to make my own version. I can’t remember the exact dimensions of the fabric, but it was probably around 1.5 yards of 57″ wide fabric. At the time, I didn’t have a full grasp of the math required to determine the size of the bias tube that would result from my piece of fabric – I was winging it. However, I was able to cut a sleeveless dress out of the resulting bias tube.

Playing with this concept got me very excited about the possibilities of bias-cut garments made from a bias tube. This led me to try and figure out how to mathematically determine the length and width of the bias tube, based on various starting fabric measurements. Lots of mini-paper models and spreadsheets later, I was able to determine the fabric dimensions needed to create bias tubes suitable for multiple garment sizes.

The Bias Shift Top is the result of this exploration. I’ve been craving simple, foundational pieces that are still interesting to create. This pattern is straightforward and complex at the same time, resulting in a beautiful, easy-wear garment. It’s also a relatively quick make that features clean finished seams throughout, but if you prefer to use different finishing methods than those instructed, you are welcome to do so.

The construction process is divided into three phases: Constructing the bias tube, cutting out the pattern pieces from the bias tube, and garment construction. There are three options for cutting out the pattern pieces: drafting directly to the fabric, using full-scale printable pattern pieces (available for print-at-home and A0/Copyshop), and using projector files. If you are finding it difficult to wrap your head around the construction process of the bias tube, creating a mini-paper model can be helpful (you can find directions for making one in the Instruction Booklet).

Once you understand how the bias tube comes together, you can start experimenting with the concept. Piecing different fabrics together to make your Base Square, modifying the side seams to create an A-line version, and experimenting with various fabric types – there are many ways to explore the Bias Shift Top.

Bias Shift Top PDF Pattern

I look forward to showcasing the amazing version that my testers created. I had a fantastic group of testers who helped bring this pattern to the finish line – thank you!! I will be highlighting their makes in a blog post soon. And I’m excited to see more Bias Shift Tops out in the world. Use the hashtags #BiasShiftTop and #GoldfinchBiasShiftTop and tag me @goldfinchtextilestudio if you post to social media. If you have any questions about the Bias Shift Top, please don’t hesitate to reach out to me – emily@goldfinch.design.

Happy Making!

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Beyond the Scraps: Why I Design and Sew with Zero-Waste Patterns

The fashion industry’s staggering waste problem is a major concern, with textiles contributing significantly to overflowing landfills. The sheer volume of textile waste generated can feel overwhelming. While recognizing that individual sewing practices represent a very small fraction of this overall issue, many sewists, myself included, are drawn to zero-waste sewing as a tangible way to make a positive impact. It’s a way to feel more connected to the materials I use and to create with intention. But beyond the environmental aspect, there are so many other reasons why I choose to design and sew with zero-waste and minimal-waste patterns.

Zero-waste patterns from left to right: Pierce Shirt, Lettie Skirt, Eddie Smock

What is Zero-Waste Pattern Drafting?

Zero-waste pattern drafting and cutting considers fabric waste and fabric consumption from the beginning stages of the design process, with the goal of eliminating as much textile waste from the project as possible. The pattern pieces are interlocking, so less fabric is used and wasted. While achieving true zero-waste (accounting for thread ends, seam allowances, etc.) is nearly impossible, these techniques significantly reduce waste.

Zero-waste pattern layout of a button-up tunic

It’s important to understand that reducing waste in sewing can take many forms. Even with traditional patterns, careful layout (like “pattern Tetris”) and creative scrap utilization (for kids’ clothes, pocket linings, bias binding, patchwork, stuffing, etc.) are valuable practices.

However, zero-waste pattern drafting takes the guesswork out of efficient fabric use. The pattern is designed from the outset to minimize waste, eliminating the need to puzzle pieces together. Any remaining fabric is typically in easy-to-use rectangular shapes.

My Approach to Zero and Minimal-Waste:

Pattern designers’ definition of zero-waste varies, with many designs being based on the full width of a standard bolt of fabric. Within in my designs, the “required fabric” is the amount needed to create your selected size, not the entire width of the fabric. This process allows for a more comprehensive size range in my designs while reducing fabric consumption and waste. In most cases, you will have a few remaining rectangles of fabric after cutting out your pattern. These pieces can be saved and easily used for future projects, mending, color-blocked garments, patchwork, or quilts.

For me, prioritizing a wider size range and creating wearable garments is more important than rigidly adhering to using the entire fabric width. A garment that doesn’t fit or isn’t worn ultimately creates more waste. My goal is to always use less fabric than traditional patterns require.

Left: Jones Trousers shorts pattern hack pinned to the fabric and ready to cut out. Right: Jones Trouser shorts.

Why Do I Design Zero-Waste Patterns:

Beyond reducing my environmental impact, I’m drawn to zero-waste design for several key reasons: drafting directly to the fabric (no printing required), cost savings, reduction of fabric scraps, and the challenge of trying to figure out different ways to design a garment.

Drafting Directly to the Fabric: For me, drafting the pattern directly to the fabric is a huge benefit of zero-waste sewing patterns. Not having to print and assemble a pattern saves me a lot of time and resources. I can get to sewing faster because I’m not messing with piecing a PDF pattern together or tracing a pattern from a copyshop print. But, I know for many this feels like an overwhelming task because they are not familiar with the process or their brains don’t think in the same way that mine does. For this reason, I like to provide a printable version of the pattern layout when possible, and depending on the complexity of the design, printing the pattern layout is required.

Cost Savings: It’s a common misconception that zero-waste patterns require more fabric and therefore cost more. While some designers may work that way, my goal is to reduce fabric usage. Zero-waste pattern drafting prioritizes efficient fabric utilization, often requiring less fabric overall, especially for simpler designs. This is a major advantage, particularly when using expensive fabrics. Unlike traditional patterns with often generous fabric requirements (leaving you with excess even with efficient layouts), zero-waste patterns eliminate fabric guesswork.

Scrap Reduction: While there is no true zero-waste practice, the reduction of random scraps is a huge benefit for me. The majority of my fabric remnants and scraps are rectangles or squares. This makes them easier to store and easier to use for future projects. Fabric remnants and scraps can become a heavy burden to the maker. You need to have a place to keep them, you need to have time to sort and use them. If you don’t want to keep them, you have to figure out what to do with them – do you find someone who wants to use them, donate them to a school, recycle them, etc. All of this takes time and mental energy. Not having to engage in this is a huge benefit for me. While I still have scraps from seam trimming and thread ends, my overall scrap accumulation is much less when I use zero-waste patterns as compared to sewing a traditional pattern – even when I lay the pattern out efficiently.

Left: Scraps that remain from sewing a zero-waste top
Right: The off-cut from the original width of fabric

Creative Thinking: Zero-waste pattern cutting requires a different way of thinking about garment construction. It encourages creative problem-solving and can push you to learn new techniques and explore innovative design solutions. It’s a excellent way to stretch your sewing skills and expand your creative horizons. This process is a big bonus for me. I love the challenge of thinking about how something could come together in a different way. Introducing people to new ways of thinking about how a garment can come together is very rewarding.

Zero-waste Sewing Patterns

My hope is that zero-waste patterns become a valuable tool in your sewing practice, enhancing your skills and creativity, rather than replacing your existing sewing practice. By exploring this alternative approach, you’ll expand your knowledge and skill set, gaining valuable insights that can be applied to all aspects of your sewing. While “zero-waste” may represent an ideal rather than a perfect reality, its core principles offer substantial benefits for both the environment and the sewist. From resource and cost efficiency to fostering creativity and easier scrap management, embracing minimal-waste and zero-waste patterns is a rewarding way to approach sewing.



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The Lettie Skirt: Create Looks for Every Occasion

The Lettie Skirt combines effortless style with thoughtful, minimal-waste construction in a classic A-line midi silhouette. This versatile PDF pattern is particularly well-suited for intermediate and advanced sewists, offering a blank canvas for a variety of looks. Let’s explore some styling inspiration:

Lettie Skirt PDF Pattern

Styling the Lettie Skirt:

Unexpected Twists/Accessorizing the Lettie: Don’t be afraid to experiment! The Lettie Skirt’s simple design allows for endless creative combinations. Try tucking in your top only partially, or knotting a shirt at the waist for a more relaxed fit. Accessorize with scarves or interesting jewelry to personalize your look and make it your own. Bags like crossbody bags, tote bags, or backpacks complement different styles.

Effortless Everyday Chic/Relaxed Weekend Vibes: Channel effortless cool by pairing your Lettie Skirt with a simple, fitted tee, a lightweight tucked-in blouse, or an oversized, slouchy sweater. Think cozy knits in neutral tones or subtle textures. The A-line shape of the skirt balances the volume of a sweater perfectly. Opt for neutral tones for a sophisticated, minimalist look, or add pops of color with a vibrant top for a more playful vibe. Finish the look with classic Converse-style sneakers, sandals, ballet flats, or striped socks for a touch of playful personality. This is ideal for weekend brunches, relaxed days out, or running errands.

Layered Comfort & Warmth: Embrace cooler weather by layering your Lettie Skirt. For transitional seasons, layer a lightweight button-down shirt under a sweater or a lightweight cardigan over a simple top. The subtle color contrast of a shirt peeking from under a sweater adds visual interest. Experiment with different sleeve lengths and necklines to play with proportions. Brown ankle boots, boots, or even stylish socks and loafers provide warmth and grounding, making this a stylish and practical autumnal or winter outfit. A crossbody bag completes the look.

Sharp & Sophisticated/Polished and Professional: Elevate your Lettie Skirt for the office or a special occasion with a polished, professional look by pairing it with a crisp white button-down shirt, a sleek blouse, or a fitted knit top tucked in or left slightly untucked for a more relaxed professional feel. A structured blazer, a stylish jacket, or even a denim jacket adds an extra layer of sophistication. Heels, pointed-toe flats, or black loafers with a unique detail, like metallic toe caps, or elegant ankle boots will complete this polished and professional look. Consider adding delicate jewelry for an extra touch of elegance.

Playful: Let your creativity shine with a free-spirited outfit. Pair your Lettie Skirt with a loose, flowy top, a patterned tunic, or a fitted crop top. Add a colorful scarf for a pop of color and texture. Adorn yourself with layered necklaces and bracelets, and perhaps top it off with a wide-brimmed hat. Sandals, espadrilles, or even ankle boots with unique details create an interesting contrast to the free-spirited vibe.

The Lettie Skirt’s clean lines make it perfect for accessorizing. Experiment with:

  • Scarves: Add texture and color with scarves, tied loosely around the neck or waist.
  • Jewelry: Delicate necklaces or statement earrings enhance the look.
  • Bags: Crossbody bags, tote bags, or backpacks complement different styles.

With its minimalist design and endless styling potential, the Lettie Skirt is sure to become a wardrobe staple. We hope this post has inspired you to start sewing and styling! Don’t forget to share your finished projects using #LettieSkirt and #GoldfinchTextileStudio.

Lettie Skirt PDF Pattern

Enjoy!

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Lettie Skirt Tester Makes

Pattern testers are an integral part of the pattern development process. I greatly appreciate that people are willing to lend me their time, skills, creativity, and feedback to help me make my patterns the best they can be. Not only is the testing process helpful for me to make sure the pattern works well on a range of bodies and in different fabrics, but it also helps you when you are trying to determine your size and fabric for your own Lettie Skirt.

Below, you will find each tester’s version, including sizing info, fabric used, and any modifications made to the pattern.

Debbie | Waist: 64cm Hips: 93cm | Size B

Debbie selected her size based on her hip measurement. She used a mid-weight double-layered cotton.

Anniina | Waist: 93cm Hips: 113cm | Size J

Anniina selected her size based on her waist measurement. She used lightweight denim to make her Lettie Skirt. She shortened the length before sewing.

Erica | Waist: 25″ Hips:35″ | Size A

Erica selected her size based on her waist measurement. She made her Lettie skirt from 5 oz linen and didn’t modify the pattern.

Bean | Waist: 31″ Hip: 36.5″ | Size F

Bean selected her size based on her waist measurement. She made her version of the Lettie Skirt from chambray shirting. To fit the pattern layout on her fabric, she rotated it on the cross-grain.

Rhythm | Waist: 27″ Hips: 35″ | Size C

Rhythm selected her size based on her waist measurement. She used Ikat cotton fabric with contrasting flat piping to make her Lettie Skirt.

Christina | Waist: 110cm Hips: 146cm | Size N

Christina’s waist and hip measurements put her in two different sizes. When selecting her size, she chose the size between her waist and hip measurements. She used a lightweight cotton to make her Lettie Skirt.

Michelle | Waist: 74cm Hips: 97cm | Size F

Michelle selected her size based on her waist measurement. She used a mid-weight linen to make her skirt.

Alison | Waist: 42″ Hips: 46″ | Size K

Alison selected her size based on her waist measurement. She used viscose fabric to make her Lettie Skirt.

Katie | Waist: 29″ Hips: 37″ | Size D

Katie selected her size based on her waist measurement. She used a thrifted cotton curtain to make her skirt. Katie added 4cm of length to the skirt.

Evonne | Waist: 80cm Hips: 93cm | Size F

Evonne’s waist measurement put her between two sizes, and she chose to size down. She used cotton poplin to make her Lettie Skirt.

Emma | Waist: 38″ Hips: 46″ | Size J

Emma selected her size based on her waist measurement. She used cotton fabric to make her skirt.

Mel | Waist: 44″ Hips: 51″ | Size L

Mel selected her size based on her waist measurement and used a cotton/ramie blend twill to make her skirt.

Amanda | Waist: 104cm Hips: 128cm | Size K

Amanda selected her size based on her waist measurement. She used a mid-weight linen to make her skirt. Amanda modified the pattern layout to be able to fit within her selected fabric and she shortened the skirt by 5cm.

Jo | Waist: 48″ Hips: 56″ | Size O

Jo selected her size based on her waist measurement. She made her Lettie Skirt out of lightweight denim tencel fabric.

Alex | Waist: 35″ Hips” 42″ | Size H

Alex’s measurements put her in between sizes, so she sized down and selected the size that was the closest match. She used viscose fabric to make her skirt and shortened the skirt to her preferred length.

Belinda | Waist: 28″ Hips: 37″ | Size C

Belinda’s measurements put her in two different sizes, and she chose the size in between. She used linen fabric for her skirt.

Rakhel | Waist: 30″ Hips:45″ | Size H

Rakhel’s waist and hip measurements were 5 sizes apart. She chose the size in the middle. Rakhel used 7oz cotton denim to make her skirt.

Thank you again to the testing team! I love seeing all the versions and all the ways the Lettie Skirt can be styled. If you have any questions when selecting your size, please don’t hesitate to reach out – emily@goldfinch.design. I would love to see your version, too! If you post to IG remember to tag @goldfinchtextilestudio and use hashtags #LettieSkirt and #GoldfinchLettieSkirt.

Happy Sewing!

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Lettie Skirt Fabric Selection and Notions

Let’s get ready to make your Lettie Skirt! Beyond selecting your size, one of the first decisions you must make is what fabric you want to make your skirt out of. The Lettie Skirt is suitable for various fabric types, from light-weight viscose to mid-weight denim.

When selecting your fabric, one of the first things to consider is your experience with zero-waste pattern cutting. Stable fabrics with more structure, such as cotton, will be significantly easier to cut out than shifty fabrics like silk or rayon. The fabric’s weight and drape will also affect your skirt’s overall structure. Fabrics with more drape will create a more fluid, swishy skirt and fabrics with more structure will have more volume around your body and show the shape of the skirt.

Another thing to consider when selecting your fabric is directional print or nap. Due to the zero-waste pattern layout, the skirt panels are oriented in the upright and inverse positions. If you use a fabric with a directional print or nap, 3 of the skirt panels will be upside down.

I used Vanilla Herringbone Handloom Cotton from Loom and Stars for my final sample. This fabric is a dream to work with – easy to cut out and sew and is oh-so-soft. At only 43″ wide, I adjusted my pattern layout to fit (guidance is included in the instruction booklet for making these types of adjustments). The fabric is not 100% opaque, and depending on the light, the pockets can sometimes be seen, but it’s nothing a slip couldn’t fix. You may consider eliminating the pockets if your fabric is lightweight or not 100% opaque.

Another favorite of mine is Washed Hemp from Lyrical Fabrics. This fabric has both structure and drape, similar to linen. It makes for a great everyday skirt that can easily be dressed up if needed. This fabric is a little shifty so takes a little more consideration when cutting, but overall not too difficult.

My pattern testers used a variety of fabrics: linen, ikat, Tencel cotton, chambray, etc. Each one turned out beautifully!

Clockwise from top left: Mid-weight cotton, light-weight denim Tencel, 5 oz linen, ikat cotton, chambray shirting

Notions

After you select your fabric, you will need to gather your notions. The construction of the Lettie Skirt calls for a few materials you may not be familiar with or are not readily available at your local fabric store. The front waistband is interfaced with non-roll, non-fusible waistband interfacing, such as Ban-rol. This type of interfacing allows the waistband to move and bend with your body without collapsing, folding over, and wrinkling. The elastic in the back of the waistband is 1 1/2″ (3.8cm) wide, heavy, non-roll elastic. You want an elastic that will not fold over to the strain of being stretched. Finally, the partial button placket is finished with two different-sized buttons. The main part of the placket uses 1/2 “(12mm) buttons, and the waistband is secured with a 3/4 “-1” (19-25mm) button. These buttons can match, or a contrasting button could be used on the waistband.

Black mother-of-pearl buttons from Core Fabrics

Below, you will find additional information and resources on where to find these materials:

Interfacing:

If you can’t find Ban-rol (or non-roll, non-fusible mono-filament waistband stabilizer) at your local fabric store, it can be purchased online, in bulk, or by the yard. If you prefer not to use this type of interfacing, then un-stretched elastic can be used as a substitute.

Below you will find some online shops that sell Ban-rol. This is not an extensive list, just a starting point. If you purchase from a shop not listed, let me know as I would love to expand the list.

USA:

Canada:

UK:

Australia:

Elastic:

Not all elastic is created equal. When selecting elastic for your Lettie Skirt, you want to select a non-roll elastic that will retain its shape when stretched. This will make a big difference in the feel and look of the back waistband of your Lettie Skirt.

Below you will find some online shops that sell non-roll elastic. Again, this is not an extensive list, just a starting point.

USA:

Canada:

UK:

Australia:

If you have any questions about fabric selection or notions while planning your Lettie Skirt, please don’t hesitate to contact me – emily@goldfinch.design.

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Introducing the Lettie Skirt

As a person who has rarely worn skirts in the past, it surprises me that I have become a full-on skirt convert. Maybe it’s always been the type of skirt that has kept me from wearing them much. I’ve never been drawn to gathered, tiered skirts that have been popular over the years and are so easy to make. I always feel like I have too much fabric at my waist and never feel quite like myself in those styles. But this past spring, I strongly desired to design a skirt. I wanted it to be something I felt like myself in – a skirt for pants people, a versatile piece to be worn and styled in multiple ways.

And now, after months of work, many samples, and lots of skirt-wearing, I’m pleased to introduce you to the Lettie Skirt, a minimal-waste six-panel skirt. The Lettie Skirt is a midi-length six-panel skirt featuring a partial button placket with integrated buttonholes, an elastic back, and flat piping details. The skirt’s design creates a versatile, everyday staple with subtle details that elevate the garment. 

The Lettie Skirt PDF pattern comes with three different pattern files – printable pattern layouts (print-at-home and copyshop/A0), dimensioned pattern layouts to draft directly to the fabric, and projector files – along with a detailed instruction booklet. There are 20 sizes, ranging from waist: 25”-58” (63.5-147.3cm) and hip: 33”-66” (83.8-167.6cm).

Lettie Skirt PDF sewing pattern

During the design development phase of the Lettie Skirt, I spent a lot of time looking at inspo photos on Pinterest. I was searching for a feeling – a vibe of a skirt and outfit – not necessarily an exact silhouette to put my spin on. I wanted something that was not overly feminine – again, a skirt for pants people. I wanted to feel the same ease I feel when wearing this skirt as I do when wearing my favorite pair of pants. I also knew I wanted the skirt to be something that could be worn just as easily with a tee shirt and tennis shoes as it could with a button-up and loafers.

After establishing a general idea for the zero-waste pattern layout, it became time to think about the details. And the Lettie Skirt is all about the details – flat piping, integrated buttonholes on the partial button placket, front pleats, and a front slit – all with clean interior finishes.

I’ve been drawn to the idea of integrated buttonholes for a long time. I love the idea that they are built into the garment. I knew that to include something like this in the skirt’s design, I would need elements that the integrated buttonholes could be sewn into. That is where the flat piping comes in. Not only does it provide texture and visual interest to the skirt, but it is an integral part of the buttonhole construction.

These buttonholes are the most complicated part of the construction process (video tutorial). I sewed many samples to determine the best way to integrate functioning buttonholes into the seamline. Every time I sew up a sample, I get a little thrill that the process actually works.

The Lettie Skirt is a slow and satisfying sewing project. The construction details and clean finished seams come together to make a beautifully finished garment. My samples have become wardrobe staples that can be styled in a multitude of ways. This summer that has entailed a tee shirt and tennis shoes, but with cooler weather approaching, I’m looking forward to exploring the new styling options.

Lettie Skirt PDF sewing pattern

I’m looking forward to seeing more Lettie Skirts out in the world. Use the hashtags #LettieSkirt and #GoldfinchLettieSkirt and tag me @goldfinchtextilestudio if you post to social media. If you have any questions about the Lettie Skirt, please don’t hesitate to reach out to me – emily@goldfinch.design.

Happy sewing!

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Short-sleeve Pierce Shirt Hack

At the beginning of the design process for the Pierce Shirt, I planned to offer two views – a long-sleeve and a short-sleeve version. As the development progressed, it slowly became too much to handle two different pattern layouts, so I decided to drop the short-sleeve view and focus solely on the long-sleeved version. Now that the pattern has been released, I wanted to revisit the short-sleeve version and show you how to make one for yourself.

For this hack, we will work directly with the printed pattern pieces. You will adjust the sleeve length and manipulate the pattern layout to work better with the shortened sleeves. After you have developed your new pattern layout, you will be able to measure it to determine your fabric requirements.

Note that for this particular hack, the result is minimal waste, not zero waste, as the end pattern layout is not a complete rectangle. There may be other ways to approach this pattern hack, and I welcome you to play with the pattern layout to see what you can come up with. The pattern layout for the Pierce Shirt is quite versatile and can be used as a base for multiple designs.

Get the Pierce Shirt PDF Pattern

Okay, let’s get started! The changes you will make to the pattern layout are relatively straightforward. If you have already made the long-sleeved version, you will understand how the pattern comes together, which will make hacking the pattern a bit easier—although this is not necessary.

Prep work:

Before we start the hacking, you will need to print the pattern layout of your selected size, assemble it, and cut it out as directed if you haven’t already. Once all the pieces are cut out, set aside the 7-COLLAR, 8-CUFF, 6-PATCH POCKETS, 9-BIAS-BINDING, and 10-OPTIONAL HANG LOOP pattern pieces. If you are making Size D-I, you will not need 11- OPTIONAL MENDING PATCH or TEST STRIP (the irregular pattern piece between the 1-BACK and 2-LOWER FRONT).

Step 1: Shorten 1-BACK and 2-LOWER FRONT sleeves

Take the 1-BACK and 2-LOWER FRONT pattern pieces and mark the point on the sleeves where the underarm curve ends (about 3″(7.6cm) away from the side seam edge). At this point, draw a new sleeve opening edge perpendicular to the straight edge of the sleeve, as shown below in red. Fold the excess sleeve length back and out of the way (or you can cut it off if you wish). This line is the new sleeve length of the BACK and LOWER FRONT pieces.

Once the sleeves are shortened on the 1-BACK and the 2-LOWER FRONT, you can position the pieces so they are butted up next to each other.

Step 2: Shorten 3-UPPER FRONT sleeve

To adjust the 3-UPPER FRONT, align the edge of the neckline openings on the 3-UPPER FRONT and 1-BACK, as shown below with the blue dashed line. To do this accurately, you can lay the 3-UPPER FRONT pattern piece on top of the 1-BACK piece. You can now mark the sleeve length of the 3-UPPER FRONT piece. It should match the sleeve length of the 1-BACK. The 2-LOWER FRONT piece should be 1.5″(3.8cm) wider than the 3-UPPER FRONT.

Step 3: Arrange updated pattern layout

Once the 3-UPPER FRONT sleeve length has been adjusted, you can position the angled sleeve edge against the angled sleeve edge of the 1-BACK piece. Make sure that the center front of the 3-UPPER FRONT is in line with the sleeve edge of the 1-BACK piece (as shown below). Now, you will find a place to put the remaining needed pattern pieces. I have eliminated the 8-CUFF piece, as we will not need it for this hack.

There are a couple of ways to lay out the remaining pieces. You can play with the pattern pieces directly on fabric (as shown below) or work on a large table or the floor to determine the required fabric for your updated layout. As you can see, the original pattern pieces don’t fit perfectly into the updated pattern layout.

The 6-PATCH POCKET, 9-BIAS BINDING, and 10-OPTIONAL HANG LOOP pattern pieces are flexible and can be adjusted to fit within the new pattern layout without much issue. The 7-COLLAR pieces must remain their original size to fit the garment once sewn. Although, the 7-COLLAR pieces can be cut as one, as shown below, but you must eliminate the 1/2″(1.3cm) seam allowance at the center of the piece.

The images below show the adjusted pattern pieces in the updated layouts. You can make new pattern pieces for the 6-PATCH POCKET, 9-BIAS BINDING, and 10-OPTIONAL HANG LOOP, or you can draft the edges directly to the fabric when cutting.

At this point, you will be able to determine your required amount of fabric by measuring the perimeter of the updated layout. Remember to multiply the length by 2. The first option will use a wider width of fabric but less length, and the second option will use less width but a longer length.

Step 4: Sew

Now that you have the new pattern layout, you can continue as directed in the pattern instructions. For my version, I finished the sleeves with bias binding. I used the French bias binding method, which is the same process used at the hem of the shirt. I also adjusted the position of my patch pocket by aligning the top edge of the pocket with the seam of the upper front.

That’s it! If you have any questions regarding this hack or the original pattern, don’t hesitate to reach out – emily@goldfinch.design. I look forward to seeing more short-sleeved Pierce Shirts out in the world.

Happy making!

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Pierce Shirt Tester Makes

I had an amazing group of testers for the Pierce Shirt. Everyone’s feedback was thorough and well thought out. I am grateful for their hard work and willingness to help me bring this pattern to life. It’s always a bit nerve-wracking to begin the testing phase after you have spent months working on a pattern. My anxious brain is thinking – Do the instructions make sense? What if the shirt doesn’t fit everyone? Will the testers like it? etc. It’s such a relief when testers start to finish and I can see firsthand that things are coming together.

Below you will find each of the tester’s versions of the Pierce Shirt, along with sizing & fabric info and if any modifications were made to the pattern. Please note, that a few changes were made to the pattern after testing, such as the shape and width of the patch pocket, along with the depth of the back inverted pleat and neckline facing.

Before we get into everyone’s makes, I wanted to send a special thank you to Surge Fabric for collaborating with me on this testing phase. A few testers used fabric purchased through Surge and I also have a pattern hack planned in the next few weeks using their fabric. I’m looking forward to working with the chambray that I have lined up for that project – stay tuned!

Emily | Bust/Chest: 82cm Waist: 74cm Hip: 97cm | Size C

Emily’s measurements put her between a size D and E, but she chose to size down to a C for a closer-fitting garment. She used a linen blend to make her Pierce Shirt and she stitched her pintucks together adding an extra textural element to her shirt.

Ros | Bust/Chest: 145cm Waist: 150cm Hip: 168cm | Size Q

Ros selected her size based on her bust/chest measurement. She used a cotton twill fabric to make her Pierce Shirt and she needed to adjust the pattern layout to work with the fabric width.

Bean | Bust/Chest: 36″ Waist: 31″ Hip: 36.5″ Height: 5’5″ | Size B

Bean made her Pierce Shirt out of lightweight woven cotton from the Warp and Weft collection by Alexia Abegg. In regards to size selection Bean said, “I went with B because I wanted a closer fit, and with 10″ of ease at bust/hip, as well as the armhole opening of almost 16″, I thought this size would be just right. I also knew that a shorter sleeve would be better for me too, so sizing down seemed better for not than having to shorten the sleeve.” She also adjusted the pattern layout to accommodate the narrower width of her fabric. To do so she had to shorten the length of the shirt by 2″.

Cynthia | Bust/Chest: 39” Waist: 33” Hips: 40” | Size G

Cynthia sized down one size. She modified the pattern layout to shorten the sleeves by 2″. She also lengthened the back by 2″ and raised the side split by 1″. Cynthia used thrifted table linens to construct her color-blocked Pierce Shirt.

Mel | Bust/Chest: 50″ Waist: 43″ Hips: 51″ | Size N

Mel selected her size based on her bust/chest measurements. She used a washed rayon to make her Pierce Shirt. She didn’t make any changes to the pattern layout.

Jules | Bust/Chest: 39″ Waist: 35″ Hips: 41″ Height: 5’3″ | Size D

Jules made their Pierce Shirt out of 100% undyed linen. They sized down to allow for approximately 8-10″ of positive ease which is their preferred amount of ease in a garment. The sleeve length was shortened by about 1″ to accommodate fabric width.

Hayley | Bust/Chest: 38″ Waist: 30″ Hips: 42” | Size H

Hayley sized her size based on her bust/chest measurement. She used cotton chambray to make her Pierce Shirt and she didn’t make any changes to the pattern layout.

Jo | Bust/Chest: 46″ Waist: 48″ Hips: 56″ | Size L

Jo selected her size based on her bust/chest measurement and made her shirt out of soft, drapey linen. She reduced the width of the pattern layout to work with her fabric width – from 54″ to 52″.

Anniina | Bust/Chest: 116cm Waist: 98cm Hips: 112cm Height 155cm | Size L

Anniina made a size L based on her bust/chest measurement. She used a medium-weight linen and shortened the length of both the body and sleeves.

Erika | Bust/Chest: 32″ Waist: 25″ Hips: 35″ Height: 5’6″ | Size B

Erika chose to make one size down from the size that correlated with her bust/chest measurement as she wanted a little less ease. She used a light-weight linen to make her shirt and didn’t make any changes to the pattern layout.

Maggie | Bust/Chest: 120cm, Waist: 100cm, Hips: 125cm, Height: 164cm | Size M

Maggie selected her size based on her bust/chest measurement. She used a thrifted, 100% cotton duvet cover to make her Pierce Shirt and didn’t make any modifications to the pattern layout.

Kayla | Bust/Chest: 35″ Waist: 29″ High Hip: 38″ Full Hip 43″ | Size G

Kayla’s measurements put her in various sizes (size F for the bust/chest and size I for the hip). She made G – one size up from her bust/chest. She used Luxor Heavy Linen Slub from Surge Fabric. Kayla didn’t make any changes to the pattern layout.

Rebecca | Bust/Chest: 33.5″ Waist: 29″ Hips: 37″ Height: 5’3” | Size D

Rebecca’s bust/chest measurement fell between a Size D and a Size E so she sized down to a Size D. She used Limerick 3.5oz linen from Surge Fabric to make her shirt. She also used a contrasting bias binding to finish her neckline and hem.

Toni | Bust/Chest: 38″ Waist: 32″ Hips: 42″ | Size H

Toni selected her size based on her bust/chest measurement. She didn’t make any changes to the pattern layout and she used Robert Kaufman Lisbon brushed Melange (100% cotton) in gray from Surge Fabric.

Fred | Bust/Chest: 107cm Waist: 107cm Hips: 109cm Height: 168cm |Size J

Fred selected his size based on his bust/chest measurement and didn’t make any changes to the pattern layout. Fred used a medium-weight linen/cotton shirting to construct his Pierce Shirt. He also used a contrasting bias binding to finish the neckline and the hem.

Dorina | Bust/Chest: 90cm Waist: 86cm Hip: 109cm Height: 160cm | Size F

Dorina used her bust/chest measurement to select the size for her Pierce Shirt. She used Japanese cotton shirting that is roughly 80gsm in weight. Dorina adjusted the length to accommodate for height difference (she is 5’3”). Also, she omitted the pocket and used the pieces to create sleeve straps and used the neckline cut-out to reinforce the bottom corner hems at the back.

Lee-Ann | Bust/Chest: 50″ Waist: 46″ Hips: 56″ Height: 61.5″ | Size N

Lee-Ann selected her size based on her bust/chest measurements and didn’t make any changes to the pattern layout. She used a lightweight polyester to make her Pierce Shirt.

Mandy | Bust/Chest: 44” Waist: 36” Hips: 49” Height: 68.5” | Size K

Mandy used her bust/chest measurement to select her size. She used cotton poplin fabric to make her Pierce Shirt. She used narrower fabric than the pattern called for, so she cut the largest pieces out first on one strip and then prioritized the collar and cuffs, etc.

Kerry | Bust/Chest: 36″ Waist: 29″ Hips: 40″ Height: 5’6″ | Size F

Kerry sized down by one size when making her Pierce Shirt. She used a lightweight cotton and adjusted the pattern layout to accommodate her fabric width.

Jessica | Bust/Chest: | Size B

Jessica chose to size down by two sizes to achieve her desired amount of ease in the garment. She used a lightweight linen/cotton fabric to make her Pierce Shirt. The only pattern adjustment that she made was the change length of the sleeves.

Aria | Bust/Chest: 40″ Waist: 34″ Hips: 43″ Height: 5’9″ | Size H

Aria sized down when selecting her size. She used the finished garment measurements as a guide to determine how much ease she wanted in her Pierce Shirt. She used a woven cotton fabric to construct her shirt and changed the length of the sleeves.

Marlies | Bust/Chest: 37″ Waist: 28.5″ Hips: 35.5″ Height: 5’5″ | Size G

Marlies selected her size based on her bust/chest measurement. She used lightweight cotton to make her Pierce Shirt and didn’t make any adjustments to the pattern layout.

Clotilde | Bust/Chest: 80cm Waist: 68cm Hips: 90cm Height: 160cm | Size A

Clotilde chose to size down when selecting her size. She used a ready-to-wear shirt that she liked the fit of and compared those measurements to the finished garment measurements to help with size selection. Clotilde used a very lightweight cotton fabric to make her Pierce Shirt.

Courtney | Bust/Chest: 47″ Waist: 40″ Hips: 45″ | Size K

Courtney sized down by one size because they prefer a closer fit. Courtney used a cotton bedsheet to make their Pierce Shirt and didn’t make any adjustments to the pattern layout.

Katie | Bust/Chest: 32″ Waist: 26″ Hips: 35″ | Size B

Katie sized down by one size when sewing her Pierce Shirt. She used a drapey rayon blend and didn’t make any changes to the pattern layout.

Cristina | Bust/Chest: 39″ Waist: 35″ Hips: 46″ Height: 5’5″ | Size K

Cristina selected her size based on her bust/chest measurement and didn’t make any changes to the pattern layout. She used lightweight linen fabric to make her Pierce Shirt.

Antje | Bust/Chest: 82cm Waist: 68cm Hips: 94cm | Size D

Antje selected her size based on her bust measurements and she didn’t make any adjustments to the pattern layout.

As you can see, this testing group knocked it out of the park. I’m blown away by their hard work and dedication to testing the Pierce Shirt. Thank you!

I hope seeing everyone’s versions is helpful. When I am thinking about a new sewing project, I like to be able to look at other sewists finished garments (I do the same if it’s a knitting project). Seeing the garment on different bodies, in various fabrics, and different sizes, helps me figure out the direction that I want to go when making my version. If you have any questions when selecting your size or fabric, please don’t hesitate to email me any questions – emily@goldfinch.design

I look forward to seeing more Pierce Shirts out in the world!

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Introducing the Pierce Shirt

I’m thrilled to introduce my latest zero/minimal waste sewing pattern—the Pierce Shirt. This oversized button-up shirt nods to the classic button-up but features distinct details such as asymmetric pintucks, a deep curved hem, and a horizontal front yoke that set it apart and give the garment a modern feel. The interior seams are finished with run-and-flare seams and clean-finished seams to create a beautifully finished garment.

Pierce Shirt PDF Pattern

The pattern design utilizes zero-waste pattern drafting techniques and offers a wide range of sizes (21 to be exact!). The bust/chest measurements range from 30”-64” (76.2-162.6cm) and the hip measurements range from 32”-66” (81.3-167.6cm). While the pattern uses zero-waste drafting concepts, some sizes feature minimal waste to accommodate the extensive size range. Suggestions are included in the pattern for ways to use the minimal cutoffs produced. The pattern consists of a detailed instruction booklet and fully printable pattern layouts – print-at-home and Copyshop/A0 files are included, along with a projector file.

This pattern has been in the making for a long time. My first attempt at this design was over two years ago, and the goal was to design a shirt that could be casually thrown on over a t-shirt or tank when I got cold – something less than a cardigan or a jacket but light and still that provided warmth. The thrifted men’s linen button-ups that I used for this purpose were threadbare at the time, and I needed a replacement. I achieved that goal with my first attempt, but the pattern layout and sewing execution required a lot of development.

There have been many variations since and a lot of evolution on the “purpose” of the shirt, but the central concept of interlocking hem and sleeves has remained the same. As I began tweaking the design and making more samples, I grew to love wearing a button-up shirt on its own. I feel a sense of ease – a casual, put-together comfort – wearing this silhouette. And, yes, the shirt still works great as a light layer to keep warm in the evening.

At the beginning of the pattern’s development, I thought that grading and achieving a wide size range would be relatively simple. Oh, was I wrong. Just when I thought I had everything figured out, something else would come up. In the end, I’m so pleased with the final design. My samples have become closet staples, and I have more versions planned.

One thing that I love about this pattern and the pattern layout is how versatile it is. Different fabrics can create completely different looks—play with fabric weight and drape. For a more casual, everyday look, select cotton shirting or linen. If you want to make a more elevated garment, use a cupro or a silk/linen blend. You can also size down to make a slightly more fitted shirt.

Additionally, I have a few ideas for hacking the pattern that I would like to explore more in the coming months. The pattern layout and concept are pretty straightforward and once you understand how the pattern comes together you can also hack and adjust the pattern to create different pieces.

Pierce Shirt PDF Pattern

I want to thank my testing team for helping bring this pattern to life. When I say I couldn’t have done it without them, I mean it!! In the next week or so, I’m planning on sharing all of their excellent makes so you can get a glimpse, too. I know how helpful it is for me to see various versions when planning my projects, and I hope that it will benefit you. I also am planning a few video tutorials for some of the trickier bits of the sewing process. They will be posted to my YouTube channel when they are ready, and I will announce them on IG when they are ready.

Please let me know if you have any questions about anything – emily@goldfinch.design

Thank you all for your continued support!