The fashion industry’s staggering waste problem is a major concern, with textiles contributing significantly to overflowing landfills. The sheer volume of textile waste generated can feel overwhelming. While recognizing that individual sewing practices represent a very small fraction of this overall issue, many sewists, myself included, are drawn to zero-waste sewing as a tangible way to make a positive impact. It’s a way to feel more connected to the materials I use and to create with intention. But beyond the environmental aspect, there are so many other reasons why I choose to design and sew with zero-waste and minimal-waste patterns.
Zero-waste patterns from left to right: Pierce Shirt, Lettie Skirt, Eddie Smock
What is Zero-Waste Pattern Drafting?
Zero-waste pattern drafting and cutting considers fabric waste and fabric consumption from the beginning stages of the design process, with the goal of eliminating as much textile waste from the project as possible. The pattern pieces are interlocking, so less fabric is used and wasted. While achieving true zero-waste (accounting for thread ends, seam allowances, etc.) is nearly impossible, these techniques significantly reduce waste.
It’s important to understand that reducing waste in sewing can take many forms. Even with traditional patterns, careful layout (like “pattern Tetris”) and creative scrap utilization (for kids’ clothes, pocket linings, bias binding, patchwork, stuffing, etc.) are valuable practices.
However, zero-waste pattern drafting takes the guesswork out of efficient fabric use. The pattern is designed from the outset to minimize waste, eliminating the need to puzzle pieces together. Any remaining fabric is typically in easy-to-use rectangular shapes.
My Approach to Zero and Minimal-Waste:
Pattern designers’ definition of zero-waste varies, with many designs being based on the full width of a standard bolt of fabric. Within in my designs, the “required fabric” is the amount needed to create your selected size, not the entire width of the fabric. This process allows for a more comprehensive size range in my designs while reducing fabric consumption and waste. In most cases, you will have a few remaining rectangles of fabric after cutting out your pattern. These pieces can be saved and easily used for future projects, mending, color-blocked garments, patchwork, or quilts.
For me, prioritizing a wider size range and creating wearable garments is more important than rigidly adhering to using the entire fabric width. A garment that doesn’t fit or isn’t worn ultimately creates more waste. My goal is to always use less fabric than traditional patterns require.
Left: Jones Trousers shorts pattern hack pinned to the fabric and ready to cut out. Right: Jones Trouser shorts.
Why Do I Design Zero-Waste Patterns:
Beyond reducing my environmental impact, I’m drawn to zero-waste design for several key reasons: drafting directly to the fabric (no printing required), cost savings, reduction of fabric scraps, and the challenge of trying to figure out different ways to design a garment.
Drafting Directly to the Fabric: For me, drafting the pattern directly to the fabric is a huge benefit of zero-waste sewing patterns. Not having to print and assemble a pattern saves me a lot of time and resources. I can get to sewing faster because I’m not messing with piecing a PDF pattern together or tracing a pattern from a copyshop print. But, I know for many this feels like an overwhelming task because they are not familiar with the process or their brains don’t think in the same way that mine does. For this reason, I like to provide a printable version of the pattern layout when possible, and depending on the complexity of the design, printing the pattern layout is required.
Cost Savings: It’s a common misconception that zero-waste patterns require more fabric and therefore cost more. While some designers may work that way, my goal is to reduce fabric usage. Zero-waste pattern drafting prioritizes efficient fabric utilization, often requiring less fabric overall, especially for simpler designs. This is a major advantage, particularly when using expensive fabrics. Unlike traditional patterns with often generous fabric requirements (leaving you with excess even with efficient layouts), zero-waste patterns eliminate fabric guesswork.
Scrap Reduction: While there is no true zero-waste practice, the reduction of random scraps is a huge benefit for me. The majority of my fabric remnants and scraps are rectangles or squares. This makes them easier to store and easier to use for future projects. Fabric remnants and scraps can become a heavy burden to the maker. You need to have a place to keep them, you need to have time to sort and use them. If you don’t want to keep them, you have to figure out what to do with them – do you find someone who wants to use them, donate them to a school, recycle them, etc. All of this takes time and mental energy. Not having to engage in this is a huge benefit for me. While I still have scraps from seam trimming and thread ends, my overall scrap accumulation is much less when I use zero-waste patterns as compared to sewing a traditional pattern – even when I lay the pattern out efficiently.
Right: The off-cut from the original width of fabric
Creative Thinking: Zero-waste pattern cutting requires a different way of thinking about garment construction. It encourages creative problem-solving and can push you to learn new techniques and explore innovative design solutions. It’s a excellent way to stretch your sewing skills and expand your creative horizons. This process is a big bonus for me. I love the challenge of thinking about how something could come together in a different way. Introducing people to new ways of thinking about how a garment can come together is very rewarding.
My hope is that zero-waste patterns become a valuable tool in your sewing practice, enhancing your skills and creativity, rather than replacing your existing sewing practice. By exploring this alternative approach, you’ll expand your knowledge and skill set, gaining valuable insights that can be applied to all aspects of your sewing. While “zero-waste” may represent an ideal rather than a perfect reality, its core principles offer substantial benefits for both the environment and the sewist. From resource and cost efficiency to fostering creativity and easier scrap management, embracing minimal-waste and zero-waste patterns is a rewarding way to approach sewing.
